The winemakers who stayed
There is a generation of Mallorcan winemakers who could have left. The island's wine industry collapsed in the early twentieth century — phylloxera, economics, the easier money of tourism. The vineyards went. For decades, Mallorca made barely any wine worth talking about.
Then something changed. In the 1990s and 2000s, a small group of families decided that the indigenous grapes — Manto Negro, Callet, Giro Ros, Prensal Blanc — were worth saving. Not because it was commercially obvious. Because it mattered.
We visited three of them this spring. What we found was not nostalgia. It was something more interesting than that: a group of people who have thought deeply about what they are doing and why, and who make wine that could only come from this place.
The grape doesn't exist anywhere else. The soil doesn't exist anywhere else. The wine couldn't exist anywhere else. Why would I want to make something that could?
That is Pere, whose family has been farming the same 12 hectares since his great-grandfather planted the first vines in 1934. He is 42. He studied oenology in Bordeaux and came back to Mallorca. Everyone thought he was making a mistake. He doesn't think about it anymore.
The wine he makes — a Manto Negro aged in clay amphora — is unlike anything we had tasted before. Deep, structured, with a mineral quality that recalls the limestone beneath the vines. He produces 1,800 bottles per year. He has a waiting list.
We asked him what he wanted people to understand about Mallorcan wine. He thought about it for a long time.
That it has been here longer than the tourists. And that it will be here after.